Coconut Grove is literally Miami’s urban jungle, where thick plants shade outdoor restaurants, boutiques, and bars.
Coconut Grove is Miami’s oldest neighborhood, a lush collection of bungalows and banana plants set on the shores of Biscayne Bay. While it was once a playground for the cocaine kingpins of the 1980s and college kids from the University of Miami, the Grove has evolved into a sophisticated waterfront destination filled with some of the city’s best restaurants. Coconut Grove’s bohemian vibe stretches far beyond its annual art festival – the oldest in Miami – and is visible in the art galleries and boutiques that fill streets that lie under banyan trees. It’s Old Miami in the best way, where nature and humanity still seem to coexist, shaded from the frenetic pace of some other parts of the city.
Miami’s most historic and impressive private home is the former estate of James Deering, who built his palace on the shores of Biscayne Bay modeled after what he saw at Versailles. Beyond the 45,225 square feet and 34 rooms to tour in the main home, Vizcaya also boats meticulously manicured gardens that are favorite spots for photo shoots and weddings. Equally impressive is the barge just offshore, which once served as the home’s loading dock and now sits filled with Mediterranean statues and staircases.
The Barnacle State Historic State Park is a look back at how early settlers lived in Miami. Built by Miami pioneer Ralph Middleton Monroe in 1891, the home sits right on Biscayne Bay, which was the only way to access the city when it was built. The two-story wooden house is among the last of its kind, and its lawn is a perfect spot for a picnic, or to just enjoy the views out to the modern city.
Coconut Grove is the only place in Miami you can take a boat tour to Biscayne National Park. The Biscayne National Park Institute runs regular trips from Dinner Key Marina, going to the lighthouse at Boca Chita, Stiltsville, or the reefs on the parks’ Marine Heritage Trail. Tours start at $66.
While Old Cutler Road is one of the most beautiful bike rides in Florida, the secret is out. On weekends it can get crowded with cyclists, so it’s best to attempt midweek, or early in the morning.
Coconut Grove is effectively the endpoint of the city’s most scenic road, which begins on Ingraham Highway and continues down Old Cutler Road. The ride is best done by bicycle but can also be done in a car, and winds under a canopy of banyan trees as coral rock walls guard stately mansions lining the streets. The trip takes you to Matheson Hammock Park, a secluded crescent-shaped beach that’s popular with local families.
Did you know America has five National Tropical Botanical Gardens? One sits on the former estate of botanist Dr. David Fairchild in Coconut Grove. Its gardens seamlessly combine imported exotics from Asia and South America, as well as over 50 different types of mango trees and dozens of different fruits. The highlight, though, is the Kampong’s rare 80-year-old baobab tree, which was imported from Tanzania and weighs over 50 tons.
If you wanna really impress people when you come back from Miami, go to Flannigan’s in the Grove and get a soda in one of their souvenir green plastic cups. Everyone from Miami who’s moved away has at least one in their cupboard, and you’ll get some serious local cred.
Coconut Grove has transformed itself from a collection of college bars and chain restaurants into one of the most dynamic dining neighborhoods in the city. Still, old standards like Greenstreet are perfect places to enjoy a light meal outside. Though Glass and Vine, set inside Peacock Park, is an equally alluring place to dine al fresco. Michelin-starred Los Felix imports most of its ingredients from Mexico, and its casual vibe keeps it sidewalk chic. Planta Queen puts a plant-based spin on Chinese food, while Bombay Darbar is an Indian institution that’s been a local favorite for over a decade. For a cocktail by the water, stop into the Bayshore Club, where elevated views of the bay are paired with craft beer and creative cocktails.
The shady streets of Coconut Grove are lined with interesting little boutiques, where you’ll find everything from breezy tropical clothes to Moroccan oddities all within a few blocks. Hit Unika, who’s been a mainstay in the Grove since 1989, for modern fashion. The Bazaar Project in the Mr. C Hotel has stuff from all over the world. Moorish Ambiance has shelves upon shelves of items imported from Morocco. And if you’re looking for something with a little personality, hit LoveShackFancy on Main Highway.
Coconut Grove’s most famous hotel is The Mutiny, a one-time hangout for 1980s drug lords that was memorialized in the book “Hotel Scarface”. It’s still around, and though toned down a still brings the same waterfront views. The Mayfair was recently renovated, with chic modern rooms and a Bahamian-themed rooftop bar. The Courtyard by Marriott makes for a convenient, less-expensive option just steps from the water. For something more upscale, the Mr. C Hotel comes from the same hospitality group at Cipriani, and the top floor bar is pure, panoramic elegance.
Coconut Grove is perfect for anyone who wants to get a real locals’ feel for Miami and be near the water. There’s no beach, but you can easily find a spot to grab a drink or a meal by the bay, then walk back into the commercial area and enjoy the tree-lined streets and colorful shops. The Grove is popular with locals for a reason – it’s laid back and unpretentious, and though it’s not as wild as South Beach or as artsy as Wynwood, it’s a relaxing place to enjoy tropical foliage and warm breezes away from the madness.
