Guide to Pigalle, Paris
Pigalle: A Revamped Red-Light District Undergoing a Fashionable RevivalThe village-like streets were once known mainly for sex clubs and cabarets like the infamous Moulin Rouge, but Pigalle has welcomed a slew of cocktail bars and stylish boutiques, transforming into one of Paris’ hippest neighborhoods.
In the past, Pigalle would be a stop to cross Moulin Rouge quickly off the list before heading back to the more manicured Montmartre. As younger locals continue moving to the ninth arrondissement, Pigalle’s personality has shifted. While tourists flock to see Montmartre’s windmills and views of Paris from hilltop Sacré-Cœur, Parisians are avoiding the crowds and looking to Pigalle’s residential vibes instead. Head to the foot of the hill, and the setting changes entirely. South Pigalle (or SoPi) is a hipster hangout something like the Haut Marais was a decade ago (like many up-and-coming neighborhoods, it's often compared to New York's Williamsburg). Forming a rectangle from the Blanche and Anvers metro stations to Notre-Dame-de-Lorette and Trinité-d’Estienne d’Orves, Pigalle is dotted with charming cafés, gorgeous squares, and modern versions of classic brasseries. Looking for an upscale rooftop bar with a view? A dive bar with live music? A drag show or DJ and dancing until dawn? Pigalle has all of that and more. The reputation as the former red-light district adds an underlying layer of energy to the neighborhood, giving it this “anything is possible” feel. Design-forward boutique hotels and restaurants brush up against neon lights and neo-classical façades in the area dubbed “Nouvelle Athènes” (new Athens) that once drew painters and writers like Manet and Degas to its colorful cafés.
Getting to Pigalle
From the Pigalle station, you can take line 2, which stops at the Charles de Gaulle-Étoile station on the Champs-Élysées (a ride less than 15 minutes), or line 12, which runs through Madeleine and Concorde and over to Saint Germain-des-Prés on the Left Bank. The drive from Charles de Gaulle airport is about 45 minutes (around €45, or $50, for a rideshare) or a little over two hours if you’re taking the RoissyBus and connecting to line 12 (€18.30 or $20).
The Classic French Restaurants
Whether you’re after a traditional French restaurant or something on the trendier side, Pigalle offers plenty of options to choose from. At Bouillon Pigalle, order classics like onion soup and œufs mayonnaise in a contemporary version of a working-class bouillon eatery, or head to the quintessentially Parisian Café de Luce and linger over a long weekend lunch on the terrace or reinterpreted cocktails in the evening. In SoPi, Buvette Paris sources ingredients from markets around town for dishes like tajine with vegetables of the moment, while DJANGO is known for its extensive selection of natural wines and cocktails, as well as seasonally driven organic cuisine. One of the Italian chain’s latest locations, Pigalle pizzeria Popine Sacré Cœur is known to bake some of the best pies in town.
Let the Neighborhood’s Night Life Get to You
Wine lovers gravitate toward old-school-style bistro Le Bon Georges, whose cellar features more than 1,800 different bottles. For something more casual, the no-reservation, practically standing-room-only bar Lolo heats up as the night goes on with dance-worthy music and a selection of sharable small plates and natural wine. One of the most popular terraces in the area is at Le Sans-Souci, and the scene is just as lively inside, with a variety of DJs getting the crowd up and dancing. IZA Pigalle, meanwhile, takes a cue from Japanese izakayas, serving up a selection of curated sake and, later in the evening, transforms into an underground nightclub open until sunrise with hip-hop DJ sets from up-and-coming artists.
Experience the Different Vibe
One of my favorite craft coffee shops, KB Roasters, is in Pigalle and is a great place to sit and do work or have lunch on the terrace when the weather is nice.
For a no-frills option, Pigalle Country Club is a tongue-in-cheek play on the concept with cheap beer and DJ sets that shift from heavy metal and punk to disco. If you want to experience one of the most iconic drag cabarets in Paris, make your way to Madame Arthur for dinner and a show followed by a late-night discothèque.
Where to Shop in Pigalle
The neighborhood is home to a variety of independent boutiques, concept shops, and stock clearance outlets of French favorites like A.P.C., shoe store Anthology and Maison Kitsuné’s archival clothing and accessories. Browse Paris-made jewelry at Emmanuelle Zysman, shop vintage at HEADLESS, or peruse the racks at Make My D, a clothing shop started by Barbara Bui’s sister that features hand-picked labels from lesser-known or under-the-radar designers. There are still sex shops nestled between the boutiques, so the neighborhood hasn’t entirely lost its spirit, but you’ll also find a mix of spots selling housewares, Japanese kimonos, and other odds and ends.
Where to Stay in Pigalle
If you’re looking for budget-friendly accommodations, brands like Mercure and Ibis have hotels in Pigalle.
Lined with grand old townhouses, accommodations in Pigalle have an authentic Parisian feel. This isn’t the place for sky-high hotels or cookie-cutter rooms—accommodations in the area have as much personality as Pigalle itself. Art Deco Hôtel Rochechouart is one of the more luxe options and features the best rooftop bar in the neighborhood. Maison Souquet is home to an ornate bar that spans across a lounge, winter garden, and Beauty and the Beast-style reading room swathed in rich velvet and chestnut-colored wood, while 40-room Le Pigalle is a sleek mix of vintage and modern décor, complete with a vinyl library. SoPi’s Grand Pigalle Hôtel is another boutique option with 37 rooms that embrace the neighborhood’s history, plus an outpost of starred chef Gregory Marchand’s hit eatery, Frenchie.
Who Should Stay Here?
If you want to be surrounded by nightlife and entertainment, this is your place. Given it’s the red-light district, this is probably not the spot for families with younger kids or travelers looking to stay somewhere on the quieter side. The pulsating energy, stylish restaurants and bars, and shops like Stock A.P.C. (the French brand’s outlet) draw a younger crowd, so it’s a great spot for solo travelers looking to mingle with locals; friends or couples who want to shop, drink, and dine – and LGBT travelers looking for gay-friendly bars and clubs. Since the neighborhood is quite hilly, it can be difficult for travelers with reduced mobility.