Guide to Le Marais, Paris
Le Marais: A Mélange of Museums, Boutiques, and Nonstop NightlifeThe capital’s gay-friendly quarter—nicknamed the West Village of Paris—is one of the most historic in terms of culture, with some of the city’s top museums and galleries lining its winding cobbled streets.
Taking its name from its marshland origins, Le Marais—which spans across the third and fourth arrondissements—is a maze of medieval streets and architecture that attracted and housed the city’s aristocracy for nearly four centuries. Sitting between Place de la Bastille, Place de la République, and Hôtel de Ville, the centrally located neighborhood has become a hub for the gay community, since a good chunk of LGBTQ venues are located here. Follow the rainbow flags and rainbow-painted pedestrian crossings and you’ll know you’ve arrived in the right place. Today, the village feels like you’re in the heart of the city’s action thanks to the many restaurants, bars, cafés, and boutiques that have settled in and turned the neighborhood into one of the most fashionable addresses in Paris.
A Hotbed of Food & Fashion
The opening of concept shop Merci marked the area as a destination for the fashion and design crowd.
Home to some of the best strolls in Paris, the buzzy historic district—one of the oldest in Paris—on the Right Bank is filled with gorgeous squares and manicured gardens, museums in old mansions, and modern glass-and-metal monuments like the Centre Pompidou, the work of two design greats: Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers. The fashion on the streets is just as good as the neighborhood’s food, so all of your senses are sure to get their fix in this Medieval-era quartier that’s one of the hippest in the capital.
Getting to Le Marais
From Hôtel de Ville, you can quickly make your way down to the Louvre or over to the Left Bank.
Since it’s so centrally located, the Marais is easy to reach by foot from the center or via public transport. On the metro, take Line 11 to Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau; Line 8 to Chemin Vert or Filles du Calvaire; or Line 1 to Hôtel de Ville, Saint-Paul, or Bastille. From Charles de Gaulle airport, it’s around 40 minutes on the RER B (€11.45 or about $12.50) to Châtelet-Les Halles, and a 10-minute walk from the station or quick connection to the Marais on Line 1 or 11, stopping at Hôtel de Ville. A taxi or ride-share will cost about €45 ($50) and take about 40 minutes if the traffic isn’t too heavy.
A Neighborhood Filled with History and Culture
Apart from its more modern role as the gay quarter of Paris, Le Marais is lined with old hôtels particuliers, or noble mansions, that have been converted into regal hotels and museums like Musée Picasso Paris, which showcases more than 5,000 pieces of the legendary artist’s work. Lounge in the grass in Place des Vosges before touring Maison de Victor Hugo, the former home-turned-museum of the Les Misérables author, or admire the work of one of the country’s pioneer photojournalists at Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson.
One of the city’s landmark museums, Centre Pompidou, is also a highlight of the area and features sweeping panoramas of Paris, plus one of the top collections of modern and contemporary art in Europe, with work by Picasso and Kandinsky. The Jewish community also has a long history here, and there are a few infamous falafel stands and kosher delis huddled around the rue Rosiers and the Art Nouveau Pavée synagogue, Agoudas Hakehilos Synagogue.
Where to Eat and Drink in Le Marais
At Marché des Enfants Rouge, you can try a tagine from a Moroccan traiteur (food vendor) or something on the more gastronomic at the counter or high-top tables at Les Enfants du Marché—but arrive early, since these seats fill fast.
Often food is a good indicator of the culture of an area, and in Le Marais, cuisine goes in every direction. The Jewish Quarter draws crowds to its world-famous falafel stands like L’As du Falafel and Israeli street food at Miznon, while Breizh Café’s recreation of a Bretagne crêperie is one locals and visitors can’t get enough of. People watch from the terrace of Café Charlot or soak up views of the city’s skyline from the rooftop of the flame-focused restaurant Acte II. For traditional fare and a wine list that draws sommeliers from around the world, reserve a seat at Parcelles (if the sage butter gnocchi is on the menu, it’s a must-try). Natural wine-focused seafood spot Le Collier de la Reine has a seventies look and feel with its wood-and leather banquettes and brass fixtures, while Michelin-starred OGATA is an authentic Japanese tea house and restaurant housed in a renovated, Haussmanian building.
Le Marais is a popular place for shopping, so there are a number of quick-service spots like vegan Hank Burger or plant-based smoothie and juice bar Wild & The Moon. For cocktails, Mexican-inspired Candelaria or garden-to-glass Little Red Door are two of the top in the neighborhood, while British-style Cambridge Public House offers a pretty impressive selection of beer and pub fare like sausage rolls. When you’re ready to refuel the next day, head to Partisan, Ob-La-Di, Boot Café, or Dreamin Man for a caffeine fix.
Where to Shop in Le Marais
I often spend Saturdays shopping around the neighborhood, stopping for coffee at the Merci Used Book Café inside the concept shop, lined with hundreds of second-hand books that you can purchase and read at one of the tables overlooking the boulevard.
In Le Marais, you have every type of shop within a 15-minute walking distance. At department store Le BHV Marais, more than 2,000 brands are spread across seven floors, with areas dedicated to mid-range labels like Sandro and Maje, stationery and books, DIY, and beauty. Nearby, Le BHV Marais L’Homme devotes five floors to men’s fashion, while La Niche is a pet shop that’s like an FAO Schwarz for dogs and cats. Around the Marais, you’ll find big-name brands, French labels like Roseanna, lingerie from LIVY, and tons of small boutiques and vintage shops, including favorites like Kiliwatch and Kilo, where you pay by the kilo. The Broken Arm showcases a selection from brands like Jacquemus, Maison Margiela, and Comme des Garçons, while the three-story Merci is a concept shop that feels as much like a gallery space or antique market as a boutique, since the ground floor display is curated with rotating themes, and you’re just as likely to find new ceramics as a vintage bar trolley.
Where to Stay in Le Marais
La Pavillon de la Reine was the first hotel I stayed at in Paris before moving here and such a romantic place for my partner and me to call home while exploring the city.
La Pavillon de la Reine & Spa is a five-star hotel hidden in plain sight off the Place des Vosges, with 56 rooms and suites sitting inside the vine-covered, 17th-century residence. The opulent Sinner is equal parts sexy and sophisticated, with lantern-lit halls and a concept shop in the crypt. Minimalist-chic Hôtel National Des Arts et Métiers puts you in the middle of everything and has a popular terrace great for midday lunch or drinks in the early evening. Glamorous Les Bains was once a bathhouse frequented by Marcel Proust before transforming into a nightclub where Mick Jagger was a regular and, in more recent years, a sultry boutique hotel with rooms designed by two interior superstars—one of whom is responsible for Hermès boutiques around the globe. For something easier on the wallet with just as much charm—and on the buzzy drag of rue des Gravilliers—Hôtel Jules & Jim sits behind a hidden courtyard and features 23 rooms inside the 18th-century frame of the former processing plant.
Who Should Stay Here?
Le Marais is a popular place to stay during fashion week, but the hop crowd and fashionable streetwear makes for great people-watching year-round. Tucked away, cozy hotels are perfect for couples looking for something quiet and romantic, while other boutique options in the heart of the nightlife and shops might appeal more to friends or solo travelers who want to embrace the buzz of the neighboring bars, which can be on the loud side.