So it's sinking - worse things could happen to a city. After all, it's the waters of Venice, at turns calm, putrid, aquamarine, and punishing, that make the city magical. Hoping to experience the unique charm of the archipelago - the stately Grand Canal, the romance of graceful gondolas sliding down narrow canals, the opulence of the illuminated Rialto Bridge under a starry night sky, the abundance of masterful artworks filling Venice's churches and museums - curious visitors from all over the world are drawn to La Serenissima. Forget the loud crowds, messy pigeons, high prices, odd smells, and of course, the threat of acqua alta flooding the islands' sidewalks. Venice's tourist industry exists for quite a valid reason, and the city's decay is, strangely enough, part of its indescribable allure.
For travelers who can afford the expense, the gondola experience shouldn't be missed. Visitors working with less capital, however, need not forgo a scenic voyage through the city's canals. The vaporetto system of water buses, with each vessel holding dozens of passengers, is certainly is less exclusive than a romantic gondola ride. Closer to the gondolas, in many cases, are the traghetti. These smaller boats are steered by two gondolieri; though they used to be more popular, now there are only seven spots in Venice where visitors can catch a ride. Ask for a map of the stops upon arrival at the main train station. Pricier water taxis, though hardly suited for budget travelers, can also be good alternatives to the gondola - or, visitors could save their money using public transportation, then splurge on a gondola ride the last night.
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Venice is known for its antique treasures, but the city also holds a temple of contemporary artwork. The Peggy Guggenheim Museum, like its sister location in New York, boasts a nearly unparalleled collection of modern works by forward-thinking artistic geniuses like Pollock, Dali, Duchamp, and Kandinsky. Surveying the cool exterior, the design-conscious layout, and the priceless works that grace the gallery provides an afternoon's holiday from the history-steeped offerings of La Serenissima. The contrast, too, helps visitors to better place the palaces, piazzas, and churches in proper chronological perspective.
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Okay, so it's shamelessly touristy - the experience of riding a gondola in Venice, though, is unmatched anywhere in the world. Throughout town, gondoliers in traditional black-and-white striped shirts wait for tourists on canal banks with their elegant, narrow boats. There's no trick to securing a reasonable price - just pick a gondolier who looks pleasant and ask him the price. Unless money's no object, it's best to walk away and let the gondoliers squabble a bit. The rates will go down and down as the rivals battle for business. Once satisfied with an agreed-upon price, try to forget how much the ride costs and just enjoy the splendor of cruising down incredibly quaint waterways. Bring a bottle of local wine to maximize the romance.
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A spectacular rosy-hued marble structure that teems with valuable artworks, the Palazzo Ducale of Doge's Palace was the Venetian equivalent of the White House for 1,000 years. The city's doges, or dukes, were extremely wealthy rulers who spared no expense to outfit the palace. The structure can be overwhelming for visitors; it's best to look for some of the major masterpieces, like Tintoretto's ceiling in the Hall of the Four Doors, Jacopo Sansovino's massive Stairway of the Giants, and various richly painted artworks by Italian heavyweights like Titian and Veronese. The famous, aptly named Bridge of Sighs connects the former prison to the palace. Visitors are strongly encouraged to take the Secret Itineraries guided tour to get the most out of a visit to the imposingly beautiful palace.
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The oldest bridge spanning the Grand Canal was originally made of wood; after several collapses, a much more durable stone version replaced it. Completed in 1591, the bridge was designed by Antonio da Ponte (who notably beat out Michelangelo's bid) with two ramps leading up to a portico. Today, the ramps are lined with small shops; far more interesting than overpriced tourist shopping, however, is the simple experience of walking over the bridge at night or observing it from the standpoint of a nearby outdoor restaurant, cafe, or boat. The Rialto is wonderfully illuminated through the evening and is recognizable from a distance. The daily market located on the east side of the bridge is also worth a visit.
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This busy central square (known in English as St. Mark's), dating from the 11th century, sees a constant stream of tourist groups, photographers, confused-looking visitors staring at maps, and children chasing after the pigeons which have a funny way of alighting on anything that stays still for more than a moment. The piazza is an essential stop and an ideal vantage point for taking in the golden domes and grand exterior of the Basilica di San Marco. Unlike many Italian churches, the basilica is so frequently visited that reservations are generally required to enter. Book ahead of time to avoid waiting in line for hours, and make sure shoulders and knees are properly covered before heading inside the Byzantine monument. Tired travelers who don't mind paying a hefty price for gourmet coffee will enjoy relaxing and people-watching at the historic cafes on the square.
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A Le Do Spado was once a casual neighborhood wine bar; now it has a handful of tables where a mix of natives and travelers feast on local treats like potato croquettes, polenta, spicy sandwiches, and white wine. Six hundred years worth of customers can't be wrong - this little eatery has seen steady business since 1415.
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Il Refolo is a cozy, low-key pizzeria situated on a canal's edge and run by the owners of the much-praised Da Fiore restaurant. Swing by after a visit to the church of San Giacomo dell'Orio and take an outdoor seat for tasty pizza with figs and prosciutto and other creative dishes like pumpkin soup and blueberry-topped lasagna.
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Alla Madonna is always busy for good reason - the location near the Rialto Bridge is convenient, the risotto with frutti di mare is succulent, the catch of the day is always fresh, and the prices are reasonable (at least by downtown Venice standards.) Get a table if you can and don't be offended by the somewhat indifferent service - this spot is in a completely different league than the sub-par pizzerias catering to tourists in the area.
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Taverna La Fenice is a sophisticated eatery where the menu changes seasonally according to the produce and fish available. Indulge in the risotto with scampi or fresh filets served with butter, lemon, and tomatoes; the elegant environs are perfect for an intimate meal for two.
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Osteria Antico Dolo serves regional cuisine in a cozy space popular with couples and small groups who want to linger over several courses. The sausage and cod dishes are perfect for sharing; the strawberry gelato makes a sweet ending to the meal at this modest restaurant off the Rialto Market.
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Antico Martini, since 1921, has been a symbol of the upscale Venetian lifestyle. The antique decor, complete with candles in chandeliers and valuable oil portraits on the walls, complements intricately prepared seafood dishes like salmon with caviar or pasta with prawns. This restaurant should be factored into the plans rather than a spontaneous choice, since jackets are required for dinner.
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Al Nono Risorto offers all the classic pizza choices, a relaxed atmosphere, and appealing outdoor tables close to the Campo San Cassiano Bridge. Chess lovers can watch local masters in action in one of the dining rooms on Mondays and Tuesdays. An extra bonus: unlike many restaurants in Italy, the service at this eatery could actually be called attentive.
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Da Ivo made a name for itself with grilled steak, but the fish dishes are also excellent in this quiet candlelit space tucked away on a corner near Piazza San Marco. The cuisine is more Tuscan than Venetian, which will suit many travelers just fine - as long as they have some extra money to burn.
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Pizzeria ae Oche tosses over 80 different types of generously sized pies - white or covered in fresh tomatoes, vegetarian or thick with meats of all varieties - in a comfortable tavern-like setting. Seating either indoors or outdoors is pleasant and the clientele are laid-back.
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Just one kilometer north of the city of Venice is the island town of Murano, world-famous for delicate, artistic hand-blown glass products. Travelers with any interest whatsoever in this old, somewhat unusual art form shouldn't miss the easy trip to the other side of the lagoon. Free tours of fornaci give visitors the chance to witness the fascinating process of hand-blown glass production, and, of course, the opportunity to purchase the colorful, fragile products. Even those who aren't looking to buy probably won't forget the sight of diaphanous bubbles emerging from the mouths of Italian artists. Anyone venturing to the island shouldn't miss the church of San Pietro Martire, which features altarpieces by Tintoretto, Bellini, and Veronese.
Murano, Train Service from Piazza Roma. Check Website for Departures and Prices.
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Many European cities aren't overly pleasant to visit during the summer months - but Venice takes things to a whole new level. Not only are the sweaty crowds in full force, but the island sizzles with heat, and worst of all, the canals start to stink. Gondola rides lose their magic and lines outside the air-conditioned cafes are almost unbearable during June, July, and August. It would be better to visit Venice during the heat than not at all, of course, but visitors should consider how seriously the city's enchanting qualities are diminished by the beating sun before purchasing plane tickets.
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Travelers visiting a new city for the first time can certainly count on getting lost at one point or another. But losing one's way in the New York City grid is quite a different story than finding oneself stranded on a tiny bridge over a canal that doesn't appear to be marked in any way. Venice's streets twist and turn and the connections between the various islands of the archipelago are rarely distinct. A few words of wisdom could avert disaster: it's important to learn the Italian names of the main attractions (i.e. Piazza San Marco instead of St. Mark's Square) so that asking a local won't be an impossible task. Keep eyes out for signs with the word per preceding the name of a landmark: these indicate that the square or church is in the direction the sign is pointing. Water taxis are one option for truly confused or hurried travelers. But those with a bit of time to spare should try to relax and revel in the beauty of undiscovered corners and alleyways. After all, Venice isn't that big, and most of it has been commercialized. Getting lost is one of the few remaining ways to experience something off the beaten path.
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This stylish restaurant and bar serves exquisite plates during the day; the back room hosts live music performances, cabaret shows, poetry readings, and other forms of evening revelry to entertain travelers who have run out of conversation topics to discuss over another glass of wine.
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This very elegant, very expensive cocktail bar is practically an institution in Venice. Since opening its doors in 1929, Harry's has hosted an endless list of famous guests, beginning, perhaps, with Ernest Hemingway. Even if the prices are through the roof, this legendary bar is a memorable experience.
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At this welcoming little club, the Bellinis are tart, the chocolate mousse is sinful, the music sets the scene, and the staff is surprisingly friendly. Patrons of all ages and backgrounds stop in for perfectly mixed cocktails as the evening goes on.
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